Book Review: Summer in a Glass by Evan Dawson

You know a book is good when you're bummed to be deplaning a cross-country flight before you've finished reading. But that's what happened to me with Evan Dawson's Summer in a Glass: The Coming of Age of Winemaking in the Finger Lakes recently.

The book tells the stories of 13 winemakers in the New York State wine region, each extensively researched and told in a narrative non-fiction format. I found the approach particularly effective in conveying each winemaker's story and raising their wines to a higher level of understanding and potential enjoyment. On several occasions I found myself wanting to seek out specific wines described in the book.

If the idea of reading winemaker stories leaves you uninspired I think I might know how you feel. For me, most winery stories sound similar: Guy makes boatloads of money in a non-related industry, dumps it into the sexier wine trade and is now producing wine made with unparalleled standards at unbelievably high prices. That said Summer in a Glass succeeds by relating stories in a way the winemakers themselves might have trouble conveying with a similar level of intrigue.

Perhaps that's because the author is a storyteller by trade anchoring the news desk at Rochester's ABC affiliate. He's also a wine writer who contributes regularly to online wine publications - primarily the highly regarded New York Cork Report. Dawson is the kind of writer I find interesting regardless of the subject he's writing about -- whether it's migraines, Barbaresco or Finger Lakes Riesling.

Impressive On a Number of Levels

First and foremost there's the undeniable charm of being transported to a region like the Finger Lakes. Given its duration and intensity, winter in the Finger Lakes makes summer all the more appreciated and Dawson captures the essence of each season beautifully. It's never in your face with metaphors but the notion of how special warm summer nights are comes through brilliantly.

At its best Summer in a Glass weaves chapters together in near-cliff hanger style showing the interconnectedness of winemakers in the region leaving the reader wondering how each winery will fare.

The work Dawson put into researching the stories relayed is evident and pays dividends. Dawson's wide-open, inclusive personality comes through brilliantly as he embeds just enough of himself in the story to draw the reader in.

One of the most difficult things to do as a narrative story teller, I think, is convey a story about the less-likeable character. It's relatively easy to tell the story of a gregarious German like Anthony Road's Johannes Reinhardt but revealing the essence of a highly regarded but not-so-collaborative winemaker like Hermann Wiemer is a different challenge. As an author you know the subject will read what you've written - and might not be happy with it - but Dawson finds a way to find the best lighting for each personality while painting an accurate picture.

Conclusion and Recommendations

After reading Summer in a Glass in some ways I regret not visiting the region already. But at the same time I feel I now have a reliable guide pointing me some of the best producers in the region and an interest in tasting the wines to compare notes with what's described in the book.

If you're a content creator you might find yourself wondering as you read the book: Could I write something on par with this about another wine region? Regardless of the answer the fact the book has you asking that question is, I think, an inspiring achievement in itself.

I highly recommend Summer in a Glass for anyone interested in good stories about wine, especially in the Finger Lakes, and especially if you're headed there for a visit any time soon.

More info here: http://evandawsonwrites.com

4.5/5 Stars WWP: Highly Recommended


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Robert Mondavi Day

Today marks what would have been Robert Mondavi’s 98th birthday, a day before Father’s Day, which is symbolic in its own right not only for the paternal leadership Mondavi provided to the wine industry, but also the lessons he imparted upon his children, the heirs to his legacy, faithfully carried on.

On a recent visit to Indianapolis, at an Italian restaurant that belies its location, tucked between a Junior Achievement and a Wal-Mart in a part of town in need of gentrification, I had lunch with Bob’s son Tim and his sister and partner in Continuum Estate, Marcia Mondavi Borger.

We would dine that day in early April at Capri Ristorante—the progeny of an Indianapolis institution, Amalfi, both opened by Arturo Dirosa who strives to bring the ‘Old Country’ to Indianapolis.  Amalfi was Robert Mondavi’s favorite Indianapolis restaurant.  He was simpatico with Arturo’s authentic Italian way.

It’s perhaps appropriate that even when they’re not trying, the younger Mondavi’s honor legacy and relationships.

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I expected to join a large group of people, maybe a dozen I figured, some distributor hanger-on’ers, a retailer or two and a couple of writerly types.  Color me surprised (and a little bit nervous) when I found out I was their only guest.

I’m not much of a star-gazer.  Michael Jordan, Frank Sinatra, Lou Holtz and, well, the Mondavi’s are the only people, aside from my own parents, that I put on a pedestal worthy of exemplary admiration. 

As Tim held court with Marcia acting as the conversational re-direct when Tim strayed too far afield, as he’s wont to do, we had a delightful lunch that typified why Robert Mondavi, and by extension his family, are my wine touchstone.

Utterly free of any pretense, affable, focused on wine that exhibits where it’s grown, reaching for the pinnacle in quality, a part of the table, family-focused, and exhibiting a sensibility that is concerned with helping your neighbor and doing the right thing, there’s a lot to like about the Mondavi tradition as its carried on by Tim, Marcia and their brother, Michael, a fact that I’ll explore in greater depth in a future column.

While carrying on the family legacy is important, as they’re all involved in new projects, never far from thought though, I imagine, is the sheer impact that their father had on the industry they inherited.  By donating over 40 boxes of the elder Mondavi’s papers to UC Davis this week, in a small way, they ensure that Robert Mondavi’s thoughts and ideas, as captured in his ephemera, is accessible in the widest manner possible for the wine industry’s future.  I’ve appended a couple of examples below – some personal notes on business and a speech to the Wine Institute circa 1981.

To Robert Mondavi, let us raise a glass of wine in honor of him on this day, what is quickly becoming a national wine holiday.

Salute!

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Source: http://goodgrape.com/index.php/site/robert_mondavi_day/

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Tasting Alert: Albino Rocca at Vintages Belmont, MA


Coming this Friday, June 10th to Vintages in Belmont, MA is a free tasting of wines from Albino Rocca. Angela Rocca himself along with his daughter Daniela will be on hand pouring and describing their wines. It's an event not to be missed. Click here for more information about the tasting.

I first discovered the wines of Albino Rocca at a blind tasting at Adam Japko's last fall arranged by Vintages owner Eric Broege. We tasted through the following 6 Barbareschi - the ones in bold stood out to me as particularly noteworthy:

  • 2004 MARCARINI Barolo "Brunate" (La Morra)
  • 2004 ALBINO ROCCA Barbaresco "Brich Ronchi" (Barbaresco)
  • 2005 ALESSANDRIA Barolo "Monvigliero" (Verduno)
  • 2005 CANTINA del PINO Barbaresco "Albesani" (Neive)
  • 2006 SOTTIMANO Barbaresco "Pajore" (Treiso)
  • 2006 Burlotto Barolo "Cannubi" (Barolo)
I'd rate the 2004 Albino Rocca Brich Ronchi 94 points - outstanding. Last Friday in anticipation of this tasting I cracked open a 2003 Brich Ronchi:

2003 Albino Rocca Brich Ronchi Barbaresco
$68 Release Price
1,500 cases produced
Purchased at Bin Ends Wine

A massive wine of surprising depth for the region. As soon as I opened it, the room was filled with aromas of rustic fruit. On the nose I get signature Nebbiolo minerality, deep rich red fruit and menthol. The mouth feel is rich and supple. The finish goes on for minutes. An outstanding wine from a fantastic Barbaresco producer.

85 Wine Spectator
94/100 WWP: Outstanding

The wines of Albino Rocca have consistently impressed me so I'm looking very forward to attending this tasting. Too often as I'm exploring a new wine category I make the mistake of "nibbling at the low end". What better way to see if you like the wines from a certain region than starting at the high end - for free! I hope to see you at the tasting Friday.

Subscribe to the Wellesley Wine Press and I'll let you know how it goes.

Question of the Day: Have you had Albino Rocca Barbaresco? What are some of your favorite producers in Barbaresco?


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Kerr?s First Jeebus or ?Can?t find any Ice Wine, will a 1990 Haut Brion do??

I first met Bob Ross a couple of weeks ago when he was up in Niagara Falls, New York on business. Bob, along with Buffalonian Howie Hart, took a little time off to cross the border to scope and taste their way around several wineries on the Niagara escarpment. I, of course, was happy to [...]

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Deal Alert: 2008 Alesia Pinot Noir

Sorry if this one is gone before you read this, but Last Bottle has the 2008 Rhys Alesia Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir for $39/btl with free shipping on 4 bottles.

Here are my thoughts on this wine from last month. I think it's a beautiful wine. I can't seem to keep enough high quality California Pinot Noir on hand and this one falls firmly within that category. It's interesting to see a wine of this caliber on a flash sale site but it bodes well for Last Bottle. I like the wines they're sourcing so far.

If you're subscribed to the WWP via E-mail and want more timely updates might I suggest you follow me on Twitter (@RobertDwyer) or Like the WWP on Facebook? Gotta keep in touch on the deals you know?


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Smith-Madrone Riesling 2009

I have to admit that I don’t drink a lot of white wine in the dead of a Minnesota winter. But when I saw a sample of the almost mythical Smith-Madrone Riesling, I had to see what was in the bottle. The last time I tasted Smith-Madrone Riesling was a tank sample with winemaker Charles Smith. I [...]

Smith-Madrone Riesling 2009 originally appeared on Winecast. Licensed under Creative Commons.

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